Essential Tips for an Unforgettable Second Visit to Paris
- 8 hours ago
- 7 min read
You've finally taken that first trip to Paris and you're chomping at the bit to get back. Paris has that effect! If you've followed the suggestions in my article outlining a first-visit itinerary, you've already covered a lot of ground and this time you might want to revisit some of those sites. You might want to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower on a clear day, spend more time in Montmartre or climb to the top of one of the towers at Notre Dame cathedral which, happily, has reopened. But you're also probably more than ready to make new discoveries. This article will give you suggestions for what to visit as opposed to a specific step-by-step itinerary. Paris is a very walkable city, but Uber, G-7 (the Parisian equivalent to Uber), the métro and city buses are all good alternatives to walking. And there are always the omnipresent green and blue bikes to rent!
Museums
Of course your itinerary will depend on your individual interests. If you love museums, there are over 100 to choose from. I love impressionist art, so I tend to gravitate to the Musée d'Orsay, the former train station with a renown collection of art from that era.
Musée D'Orsay
Métro: Solferino or Asemblée National, Line 12
Musée Marmottan
Métro: La Muette, Line 9
My favorite museum in Paris is the Musée Marmottan Monet in the 16th arrondissement. It houses a wonderful collection of Monet paintings as well as other impressionists in a beautiful former hunting lodge. After visiting the museum, sit on a bench and enjoy the Ranelagh Garden just opposite the museum.
Musée Rodin
Métro: Varenne, Line 13
The Rodin Museum is another of my favorites. Especially on a nice day the garden is a must-see with sculptures such as the Burghers of Calais and The Gates of Hell.
And of course, there's the Louvre...
Métro: Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre, Lines 1 and 7
If you visit the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay or any other large museum in Paris, I strongly suggest buying tickets online prior to your visit. Be sure to also check which days they're closed.
Canal Saint Martin
Métro: Jaurès, Lines 2, 5 and 7 to the north and
Bastille, Lines 1, 5 and 8 to the south
Taking a boat ride on the Seine is a wonderful way to experience the beautiful architecture of Paris and I strongly suggest doing it. But there's another body of water that's often overlooked and worth a couple hours of your time. Primarily located in the 10th arrondissement, the Canal Saint Martin extends almost three miles, connecting the Seine River to the Bassin de la Villette in the north. This area has a trendy, relaxed vibe which makes for an enjoyable walk along the banks of the canal. Walk over one of the bridges and enjoy the view as in the photo below.
You can also float down (or up) the canal on a boat which will take you through nine locks in the relaxed, 2.5 hour trip.
Père Lachaise Cemetery
Métro: Père Lachaise, Lines 2 and 3, or if you want to start from the top and walk down,
Gambetta, Line 3
A cemetery? A resounding YES! Encompassing 110 acres in the northeastern 20th arrondissement, Père Lachaise is the largest park in Paris. Not only is it a beautiful setting in which to stroll, it's a glimpse into history and an art-lover's heaven.
Read more about Père Lachaise here.
Parks
In my three-day itinerary I included my favorite park, the Jardin du Luxembourg, but there are many more in Paris, over 400 in fact. Here are a couple.
Parc Monceau
Métro: Monceau, Line 2
This gem is located in the 8th arrondissement. It was created in the late 18th century by the Duke d'Orleans who loved all things English and set out to design an English garden. Like so many buildings and other landmarks in Paris, the Parc Monceau has undergone many modifications including a reinvention by Baron Haussmann, the architect of modern-day Paris, in the mid-19th century. Today it encompasses 20 acres. It even offers free wi-fi, but I'd rather leave my computer at home and enjoy the beautiful setting.
Read more about Parc Monceau here.
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Métro: Buttes-Chaumont, Line 7(bis) - note the "bis"!
If you're in the mood to venture a little further from central Paris, take the métro up to the 19th arrondissement and enjoy a stroll in this beautiful 61-acre park. True to its name, it sits high upon a hill overlooking Paris. Among other things, this area was a limestone and gypsum quarry until Baron Haussmann transformed it into a park in the mid-19th century for the growing population of that area. Don't miss the Temple de la Sibylle, modeled after the temple at Tivoli near Rome.
Quartier de la Mouzaïa
Métro: Botzaris or Danube, Line 7(bis) - note the "bis"!
It took me years of visiting Paris to discover this neighborhood. If you go to the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont take a short walk to this nearby residential area. It was built over the former gypsum quarries I mentioned above, hence the less imposing architecture than that of central Paris since the ground here couldn't support the weight of the typical Haussmann architecture. One of the things I love about this neighborhood is that it's authentic and non-touristy.
You can read more about it here.
La Cité Florale
Métro: Corvisart, Line 6 or
Tolbiac, Line 7
This charming neighborhood is a small, triangular section of the 13th arrondissement. Strolling through its cobblestone lanes, you wouldn't know you're in central Paris. Each house is distinctive for its display and even the streets are named after flowers!
Read more about the area surrounding the Cité Florale here
Rue Cremieux
Métro: Gare de Lyon, Lines 1 and 14
This quaint, cobblestone street is a short walk from the bustling Gare de Lyon in the 12th arrondissement, although you'd never know it. Each house is painted a soft, pastel color hence the name "Cremieux". If you're in the area, this street is worth a quick stroll.
Churches
With 200 religious buildings, Paris is a church-lovers paradise. In France, there's no charge to visit churches and visiting them is one of my favorite activities. Of course, Notre Dame should be at the top of your list, but there are so many more dating from the Middle Ages and earlier. If you didn't visit Notre Dame on your first trip, don't miss it on this trip. The interior has been completely cleaned since the devastating fire of 2019 and it should be one of your first stops. While you can purchase a timed ticket in advance (purchase ONLY from Notre Dame's official website), you don't need one. Even the no-ticket line which often looks long moves quickly. Read more about it here. There are many more churches worthy of your time; here are just a few.
Saint-Sulpice
Métro: Saint-Sulpice, Line 4
Often overshadowed by Notre Dame, Saint-Sulpice is a masterpiece in and of itself. Construction began in 1646 and continued over the centuries culminating to the marvel it is today.
Saint-Sulpice is considered the second largest church in Paris after Notre Dame, but it's actually the largest in overall square footage. One of the most interesting aspects of it is the Gnomon which was installed in the early 18th century to tell the time and determine the solstice. There is a tour every Sunday in English which I heartily recommend.
Read about this church and its Gnomon here.
Saint-Etienne-du-Mont
Métro: Cardinal Lemoine, Line 10
Saint Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, decreed that this church be built, and her relics are located here. Tucked behind the Panthéon in the 5th arrondissement, Saint-Etienne-du-Mont was dedicated to the first-century martyr of the same name. The photo above highlights the gorgeous rood screen which separates the choir from the nave. Built in the early 16th century, this is the only rood screen that exists today in Paris.
Read more about this beautiful church here.
Saint Germain des Prés
Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Line 4
The relatively plain exterior of this church on a busy corner in the 6th arrondissement belies what you'll find in the beautiful interior. About half the churches in Paris are owned by the city which embarked on an $8 million major restoration project of Saint Germain between 2012 and 2022. I love the subtle colors of the columns and the stunning artwork.
Go around Noon on a sunny day and you may be treated to this sight!
Read more about St. Germain des Prés here.
Jardin des Plantes
Calling all plant and flower lovers! The Jardin des Plantes occupies 70 acres along the Seine in the 5th arrondissement. Of course what is blooming will depend on the season in which you visit. For example, if you visit in the early spring, you'll be treated to cherry blossoms. My visit was in late April, so I unfortunately missed them, but it's a lovely stroll no matter when you go.
The grounds include greenhouses, an Alpine garden, the National Museum of Natural History and a zoo which is called the Ménagerie. It's free to walk around, but there is a charge for the zoo and the museum. There are food options and a play space for children.
Day Trips from Paris
Depending on how long your trip to Paris is, you might want to consider hopping on a train and visiting a city outside Paris for a day. There are many to choose from within two hours or less thanks to the TGV, France's high-speed train. Some suggestions are Rouen (my personal favorite day trip), Versailles, Giverny (Monet's home with the famous lily pond), Bordeaux, Strasbourg and Dijon.
However you spend your time in Paris on your second visit, be sure to set aside a few minutes each day just to take in the beauty and rhythm of the city. In the photo below I'm enjoying a glass of wine with lunch at La Maison Rose in Montmartre on a beautiful early October day. It doesn't get much better than that!
➜ Top Tips
Whatever you choose to do, try not to overbook your days. It's tempting, especially if your time is limited, but a a key to enjoying Paris is to observe and take in its beauty.
Buses are a good way to get around, but traffic can be a challenge. If you take the métro, you won't see the city, but it's efficient and probably the fastest way to get to your destination. Buy a Navigo Easy card for 2 Euros and load as many trips on it as you want. Then you just show it to the card reader as you enter the métro and you're on your way. You can reload it from your Smartphone.
Remember to check closing days and times for museums and other major sights. I visit a lot of churches and always check the times they're open.
If you don't speak French, don't worry. Especially in Paris everyone in the hospitality industry speaks English. But it's good to learn a few words such as Bonjour, Au revoir and Merci which will go a long way.
This is a treasure trove of tips for getting the most out of Paris, Ellen … thank you!