The Byzantine Church of Saint-Esprit, Paris
- ellen
- 14 hours ago
- 2 min read
This church has never been on my radar but I'm so glad to have discovered it thanks to a French friend who suggested I visit it. It couldn't be more of a contrast to most of the other churches in Paris.
History
Paris experienced a huge population growth during the second half of the 19th century, including in the 12th arrondissement where Saint-Esprit is located. The parcel of land that the church occupies was purchased in 1927 by Cardinal Louis-Ernest Dubois, Archbishop of Paris, who incidentally was a central figure in the movement to separate the church and state in France.
Building began in 1929 and was completed in 1935. It was designated as a "Monument Historique" by the Ministry of Culture in 1992.
The French architect, Paul Tournon, was influenced by the Byzantine architecture of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. If you ever go there, you'll be struck by the similarities. The rounded arches, the vaults and domes remind you that you're in a Byzantine-inspired church.
Interior
The first thing that struck me when I entered was the dark interior, a contrast to many other churches in Paris. The heaviness of the reinforced concrete also contributes to the somber feeling.
The interior is decorated by beautiful frescos everywhere you look, the product of more than 70 artists. They were drawn directly on the wet cement. The architect established a standard height for the figures and encouraged red as the predominant color.
The dome is impressive; over 72 feet in diameter. The small windows around its base were meant to let light in, but their effect seems to be minimal.
A close-up of two of the four paintings surrounding the dome.
The gilded pulpit stands out nicely against the dark concrete.
More details of the beautiful interior.
Exterior
The exterior of the church is as unique as the interior. Below is the main entrance which at first glance, doesn't look like it leads to a church at all!
These frescos are in the large vestibule before entering the church. They depict the faculties of the soul, including wisdom, feeling and willingness.
These are two of the interesting bas relief sculptures along the side of the church representing the months of the year (these two represent April and June).
A close-up of the brick facade.
And finally, a view of the steeple.
As I was leaving the bells started to ring. I soon realized that they were calling worshippers to mass. A wonderful end to a wonderful visit.
I haven't enhanced the photos of the interior in any way. I wanted to give readers an accurate picture of the somber interior.
➜ Top Tips
If you're at all interested in exploring churches in Paris, I highly recommend visiting Saint-Esprit.
The church is on Avenue Daumesnil in the 12th arrondissement. It's a lovely street that's worth a stroll.
The closest métro stations are Daumesnil (lines 6 and 8) and Michel Bizot (line 8).